Primera pieza externa en la Nobel 1.0
8 02 2016Hoy hemos probado la impresión de una pieza no ejemplo en la impresora Nobel, mediante técnica de UV SLA.
Categories : Tecnologia de Fabricación de Prototipos/Rapid prototyping
Hoy hemos probado la impresión de una pieza no ejemplo en la impresora Nobel, mediante técnica de UV SLA.
Continuamos hoy con las operaciones de puesta en marcha del al impresora SLA.
Fuente: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-copper
Once again we’re proud to announce a new member in our growing family of 3D printing materials. After offering 3D printing in gold, silver, ceramics, and even wood, we can now let you create and order 3D prints in our 19th material as of today: copper!
Today, for the first time ever, you have the chance to get your design 3D printed in copper with i.materialise! Copper is an affordable metal with a very high thermal and electrical conductivity. Watch the video above to see it with your own eyes!
Copper is used a variety of objects: typically, wires, cables, and parts of electronic items are made of copper since this material is such a great conductor. It is also often used for tubes, door knobs, handles, and coins since it does not attract bacteria. Besides, copper is known to be found in architecture, household items, art, medals, and jewelry.
Copper has a reddish color by nature. Your model is polished magnetically and by hand. You have the option of coating your copper model against scratches with a clear PU coat. This coat will also slow down corrosion but it won’t prevent oxidation in the long run as the material is very sensitive. Visually, there is no real difference between uncoated and PU-coated parts at first. When corrosion starts to happen, the difference will become apparent and a greenish verdigris or tarnish (patina) will become visible.
Have you already designed something for our gold, silver, bronze, or brass materials? Then there’s another bit of good news: the design specifications for copper are exactly the same. Minimum wall thickness (0.5 mm), minimum details (0.3 mm), and maximum printing size (88 x 63 x 125 mm) won’t change. Click here to find out more about the design specification for printing in copper.
This is due to the fact that the technology for printing in gold, silver, bronze, brass, and copper is the same: a mix of lost wax casting and 3D printing. First, a wax cast of your item is 3D printed and then covered in fine plaster. When the plaster solidifies, it is placed in an oven and heated to a point where the wax is completely melted out. The metal is then poured into the empty cast and your real 3D printed metal item is created. In the final step the item is finished manually. Click here if you want to find out more about the technological aspects of printing with copper.
Do you feel like creating a 3D print in copper now? Make sure you check out our material page about copper first to learn more about it. Upload your model here to order your 3D printed copper item today, or visit this page to compare it with the 18 other 3D printing materials we offer.
Fuente:https://i.materialise.com/materials/ceramics/design-guide
Here are some basic rules, tips, and tricks to design a printable model in Ceramics.
Minimum Wall Thickness 3 – 6 mm
Minimum Details 2 mm
Accuracy ±3%, adds 1 mm of glaze
Maximum Size 340 x 240 x 200 mm
Clearance 4 mm
Interlocking or Enclosed Parts? No
In 3D Printing, wall thickness refers to the distance between one surface of your model and the opposite sheer surface.
Wall thickness defines the strength of your model; therefore, the minimum wall thickness of your design will be defined by the size of your model. In general, larger models need to be stronger. If the sum of the dimensions of your model is between 120 and 200 mm, you should use walls that are at least 3 mm thick. When the sum of the dimensions is greater than 201 mm but smaller than 300 mm, a minimal wall thickness of 4 mm is recommended. When the sum is larger than 301 mm but below 400 mm (above 400 mm is not printable), the walls should have a minimum thickness of 6 mm. These minimum values are a general guide but keep in mind that large pieces should have thick walls. Clicking on the image on the left will show you a small overview of the values we described above.
The maximum wall thickness is a lot easier. If your walls stay below 15 mm in thickness, you will be fine. Thicker sections will generate too much internal stress, causing the item to crack or even break.
Because of the machine size and the way ceramics are processed, we need your design to meet a minimum size as well as be smaller than the maximum size. The minimum size is set because smaller items are more difficult to glaze. The maximum size is defined by the maximum building volume of the machine for the characteristics of the material.
Unlike other technologies where a specific bounding box is given, ceramics requires you to do some math and add up the three dimensions of your model. If the sum of the X, Y and Z dimensions is between 120 and 400 mm, your model is good for printing. Models where the sum is below 120 mm or exceeds 400 mm are not possible at the moment. The maximum dimension in any one direction is limited to 340 mm because of limitations in the machine size (340 x 240 x 200 mm).
It’s easier to make a thicker piece than a really thin one and we want your design to fill up at least 5% of the bounding box. Thicker pieces cause fewer problems during production and transport because they’re less breakable. You might think that this minimum fill percentage drastically increases the price but, unlike other technologies, the price for ceramics is determined by the surface area. This means that you don’t get penalized for using a larger wall thickness as you would with other 3D Printing techniques.
A feature should have a minimum size of 2 mm to come out nicely. The glazing reduces the definition of features because it adds an additional layer of up to 1.5 mm on top of the piece.
It’s important to design your model with limited overhangs. Overhangs are features that stick out from your model. Make sure to limit the overhangs to 20 mm for sections with a wall thickness of 3 mm, 50 mm for sections with a wall thickness of 4 mm, and 90 mm for sections with a wall thickness of 6 mm.
For an even application of the glaze, avoid sharp edges as much as possible. We recommend applying a fillet with a minimum radius of 2.0 mm to sharp corners. Also, any joining faces should have a minimum radius of 2.0 mm.
Because of the glazing process, openings that are too small can get sealed by the glaze. Therefore, the minimum feature opening size is 5.0 mm. For hollow parts, the part must include an opening for powder removal that is at least 10 mm in diameter. Enclosed areas might be missed during glazing since it will not be able to reach these areas, so it is important to make sure that any openings are large enough so the glaze can be applied.
Try to avoid the so-called necking effect, where your design goes from a thick area to a thin one. This will create internal forces in your design that could cause the model to break during production or afterwards.
Thin struts cannot be attached to large unsupported sections. To avoid problems, try to imagine what will happen when gravity is applied to your design. This explains why large sections should be lower in the part and cantilevered struts should be less than 20 mm long. For example, with figurines, make sure the head is firmly attached to the body and that the model is stable and has a base.
In order to apply the glazing, a model needs to have an obvious base. This is because your design will have to stand or rest inside of the firing oven to become strong and receive glaze. Without a base, you will end up with an area where no glazing will be applied. In some cases your model can be hanged during the process but this will still leave a strip of unglazed ceramic.
Glaze will add thickness to features and can add up to a maximum of 1.5 mm in thickness. However, because of the nature of glazing, some geometries may cause uneven distribution of the glaze. An example of this is the bottom of the inside of a cup where the glaze will be thicker than on the sides.
Unlike polyamide, it’s impossible to have moving parts in a ceramic design. Pieces that «fit» together are difficult, but if you must build this into your design, please keep a clearance of 4 mm.
When placing embossed text on your design, the minimum point size for raised text is 36 points or 12.7 mm (0.5 inch), and it must stick out by at least 2 mm. For engraved text, your text will need to be a little larger to take into account the thickness of the glazing. We recommend a minimum size of 60 points or 21.2 mm (0.83 inch) for engravings, with a depth of at least 3 mm.
mas presupuestos e información en :
Acabamos de recibir la impresora SLA, de la casa xyzprinting. La impresora es la Nobel 1.0.
En breve os subiremos fotos del proceso de puesta en marcha. Podeis ver un video de el proceso de funcionamiento.
video demostrativo.
El sabado 16 de enero participamos en el Primer Congreso de Impresión – Diseño 3D y Makers para Alicante.
Os paso fotos del evento
Estamos preparando la participación en la 1ª Feria de Impresión 3D, Diseño 3D y nuevas tecnologías para la provincia de Alicante, que se celebrará el proximo 16 y 17 de enero en la Cigarrera (Alicante).
Las charlas que se impartiran son:
SABADO
10:30 Presentación Lucentum 3D (Asociacion MAKER ALC)
11:00 Presentación FabLab Alicante
11:30 Patrimonio Virtual y nuevas tecnologias (Patrimonio Virtual)
12:00 Presentación OpenRov, Un dron submarino
12;30 Presentacion FloDrone Panorama de los drones voladores en España
17:00 Presentacion Relieves 3D (Educación)
17:30 Arduino la revolución Maker (Miguel sanchez UPV)
18:30 Escaneo 3D (Printed Dreams)
19:00 19:20 Presentación Impresión 3D y aplicanciones médicas,(Empresa Tikoa)
19:20 20:52 Moda impresa. Pase de modelos (Darkness. Rocio Izquierdo)
DOMINGO
10:30 Presentacion: el grafeno en la impresión 3d, nuevas posibilidades 3d (Applynano Solutions)
11:00 Presentacion Proyecto Gutenberg ( Fulgencio Bermejo, IES Palmeral)
11:30 Presentacion Hormigeros imprimibles (Angeles Murcia,IES Palmeral)
12:00 Presentación empresa LEWIHE, fabricante de impresoras 3D (Juan Tendero, Monovar ,Alicante)
Las charlas tienen un formato de 20 – 25 min y 5 minutos de preguntas, para que sea mas dinámica
Talleres
11:30 12:30 Taller de drones (espacio Pumbs, Flodrone)
12:30 13:30 Taller de Escaneo 3d (espacio Pumps, Patrimonio Virtual)
17:30 19:00 Taller Freecad (En el aula Cammon de Ordenadores, empresa Plastic Dreams) Modelado en 3D para imprimir
Domingo
10:30 12:00 Taller de impresión para niños (relieves 3D, aula cammon )
Designer Frank Kolkman hacks 3D printer components to build DIY surgical robot.
ver video en el link :
Hemos confeccionado la Orla 3D de la asignatura «Prototipos Avanzados» que se imparte en el tercer curso del Grado en Ingeniería en Diseño Industrial y Desarrollo de Productos.
Autor: Arístegui Maquinaria
La soldadura o fusión a tope de polietileno de alta densidad (PEAD o HDPE, como es también conocido por sus siglas en inglés) ofrece excelentes garantías.
Se trata de un material con excepcionales condiciones de resistencia y durabilidad y, aunque sus propiedades son conocidas y su soldadura se conocen y se practican desde hace años, siempre es importante tener en mente algunas recomendaciones.
Estas recomendaciones, como ya pasa en otros tipos de soldadura como la electrofusión o la soldadura de lámina… (aunque no sean las mismas recomendaciones) pueden tener el mismo resultado si no se controlan y se revisan, una soldadura no válida para su finalidad.
A continuación te dejamos un listado con diez interesantes consejos para el antes, el durante y el después de la soldaduras:
Fuente: http://aristegui.info/es/blog/consejos-para-la-fusion-de-pead/
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